Winding Down & Heading Home – Friday Nov 4 – Barcelona

What a cool adventure this Camino thing turned out to be. Firstly, that Lynne wanted to come, came, and got faster and stronger every day,

We arrive in Santiago 4 days ago now. It was pretty thrilling to enter that church yard. There were a large number of beggars around the church. I guess that is understandable but, I was surprised by them. The dude playing the bagpipes was odd, but perhaps better than the usual guitar player banging out Stairway to Heaven with an open guitar case at his feet waiting for change!

There were a large number of pilgrims in the square. It was great to meet and great so many that, either we’d gotten to know along the trails, or had just seen their faces over the last 6 weeks. Hugs, kisses cheers and tears all around. For me, there was a moment, not unlike the Ironman finish line. A moment. It’s done. It’s over. We tackled the beast and won!

We had knocked off that last 20k in about 4 hours. It was just after 11:00 when we arrived. we found the office to pick up our Compostela and then found our hotel. It seemed like we bumped into people we knew around every couple as we worked our way through the old town. We were starting to get sore jaws muscles from smiling so much!

I think Lynne talked about the cathedral the other day. It”s HUGE and, about 1000 years old itself. We checked out a couple of the services. Not being Catholic, Spanish or speaking Latin, they were a bit meaningless for us. We caught the odd word that sounded like Camino talk so, we assume they were saying nice things about us!

The second day we were in town was All Saints Day. We checked out the service then too. It’s a huge deal in the Catholic world. The church was packed. The incense burner in this Cathedral is HUGE! There are YouTube videos of the monks swinging this massive burner from one side of the church to the other, with it almost hitting the 50′ ceilings on either side. We’re told the history of this goes back to when pilgrims of yesteryear arrived, they were just a tad ripe! The incense covered up the aroma of people who had not bathed on weeks or months. I’m happy to tell you there are pretty good showers all along the way now!

We met up with our friend Reece on day 2 at the service and then met up again for dinner and, way too many, drinks that night. We noticed that there were a few less pilgrims that we knew around town on day 2. Less again on day 3. Torino, our Toronto designer pal arrived on day 2. We met him as he came into town and we all, Reece, Torino, Lynne and I, did the dinner and too much to drink again for dinner later.

I don’t know if it just our luck to pick the two restaurants that do this or not but, at both places, when we asked for the bill, they brought some liquors out, dropped them on the table and told us,”Compliments of the house”. I REALLY LIKE this custom.

Reece left early the yesterday morning. Lynne, Torino and I had breakfast together before Lynne and I headed to the airport. There was practically no one left in town that we knew. I guess most pilgrims stay for 2 or 3 nights before heading out.

We both felt the usual tensions of life start to settle back in. Reece was still at the airport when we got there. His flight had been changed but he didn’t know. $500 later he had another flight booked but wasn’t sure if it would catch up to his second of 4 connecting flights to get him bak to Australia.

There was a bit of stress walking the Camino. Would we find a place open for breakfast? How many layers of clothes would we need that day? What about the wind and the rains and, where would we find a place to stay that night? Pretty simple stuff really. A lot of it, within our own control, or, dealing with it anyway.

We’re in Barcelona today. Our flight leaves tomorrow. Lynne is out getting her hair cut. She suggested I come too but, I can’t decide it I want to keep the ‘animal’ look or not so, I’ll wait until I get home. The weather here is cool, but raining steadily. Not too inviting for a stroll around Los Ramblas.

I’m finding it odd that, I didn’t realize how good we had it out on the Camino. As soon as we got here, to a big city with rushing people, poor meals, bad service and worries about flights, baggage and such, I realized that, the absence of all of that was beautiful over the last weeks. I wonder if we only notice how good something is, after it’s gone. I hope not.

Anyway, 25 hours from now we’ll be boarding the plane and about 10 – 12 hours after that, walking back in our front door, to our own bed, our own TV (where every channel is in English), Coke in the fridge and a bike in the garage!

Oh, one last point I want to make. A number of people watched me pulling out the iPad along the way to, take and post a picture, checking email while having a drink in the mountains along the trail or, whatever. A few thought it was nuts. I explained that I liked staying connected. One guy answered “How much more connected can you be than to be here?”. Different strokes for different folks I guess. Lynne and I have both loved blogging along the way. I’ve always thought that, doing stuff is cool, but sharing it with friends is the icing on the cake. So, thanks for following along. thanks for the constant or occasional comments. I, for one, LOVED being able to share this trip along the way.

I’ve said it before and, it’s true. Life is good! We’re very lucky folks!

Bien Camino Amigos!

Now, where’s my passport, tickets, boarding passes etc etc etc . . . . . . We’re coming back!!!!!!!

Day 42 – Arca – Santiago -20 k. 800k

We were out the door at 6:30 a.m because we wanted to be in Santiago for the noon mass. Maybe it was the time of day, or perhaps it was because Greg took an alternate along the highway for the first 4 k but we were completely alone for the first time in days. We met one woman a few k’s out of Santiago and an Irish fellow we had walked with a couple of days earlier who was walking out of Santiago as we were entering. He was beginning his journey BACK. I think I’d kill myself if I had to walk back!

The outskirts of Santiago are just urban sprawl, housing and some industry, but like all of the cities we have visited on this trip, the old city is wonderful. We were meandering to get to the church and a British couple we had last seen in Leon reached out for us, welcomed us to Santiago and gave big warm hugs. At the plaza in front of the cathedral we saw a Venezuelan guy we’d met a few times who lives in the Netherlands. He hugged us and sobbed which naturally made us both cry.

The cathedral, like in all of the big cities is magnificent. Originally built in 1050 but not completed for 150 years it is very Romanesque. We went inside, visited and touched (huh) the statue of Saint James. There was a line-up to do this touching of the statue thing. We sat down for the service, all in Spanish, but we caught the drift. A nun was singing at intervals and her voice was chilling. We left before the end of the service as we hadn’t found our hotel yet and needed to do that.

We had a delicious lunch (they do eat more than iceberg lettuce in Spain). If we ever see another Pilgrim menu we’ll run fast and far. We slept in the afternoon, then bought some food supplies for the room. Greg bought new jeans and tossed out the hiking pants. We ran into a German guy who we first met on our third day of travel, way back when. Hugs were exchanged. He’s hiked to Finisterre and back already. We will take the bus to Finisterre tomorrow (Wednesday). We fly to Barcelona on Thursday and to Canada on Saturday.

Day 41 – Sunday Oct 30 – 20k left to go

It’s 2:30am here now and, I can’t sleep. I feel like a kid laying in bed waiting for everyone else to get up to open presents on Christmas morning!

We had another great day for a walk yesterday. There’s a buzz on the trails now. It’s like listening to the race announcer off in the distance. Almost there, but just can’t quite see it yet!

The paths were crowded yesterday. There was almost never a time that we couldn’t see at least a half dozen, if not a couple of dozen people ahead of us. Almost all of them are newbies, doing a couple, or a few days on “The Way”, to get themselves to Santiago for All Saints Day.

There is another buzz, that we love, when we see someone that we’ve seen for weeks. Even if we haven’t spoken before, there’s a recognition and a real excitement in seeing like minded or, is like, like traveled folks.

Our buddy Torino is one or two days back from us. We’ve been keeping in touch by email. Reece must be on his way back from Finisterra. Thomas is here in the same town as us, fighting like mad with terrible blisters. The new ‘gang’. Very fun.

I’ve got real mixed feelings about finishing later today. There is a church service at the cathedral that everyone goes to. I’m excited to see that. Not sure why. I am so sick and tired of damp smelly clothes. So tired of having to pack up a knapsack every morning, hoping that nothing is lost of forgotten in a mess of sheets and blankets on a questionably comfortable bed….again! There has been something really nice about this simple life though. Get up, pack up, head out, look for food, look for trail markers painted on the road, the curbs, the sides of buildings or on cement posts planted as markers for us. We’ve made a few wrong turns (much like life) but rarely have gone more than a few hundred meters before some local calls out saying something that I could never understand, but pointing excitedly in the right direction. (unlike life!)

So, 20k to the finish. Then look for travel mates for last hugs and goodbyes, and then, off to ‘The End of the World” before we start to make our way home. There have been almost 3,000 views of our blog. Lots of comments on it, or sent directly to us by email. Lots of “Thanks for sharing’ comments. For me it’s, ‘Thanks for coming along’ We’ve both loved being so connected to everyone every step of the way.

Hummmmmmm – 3:00am. Too early to wake up my sweetie? Probably. I’ll wait for another couple of hours. Our ‘back home’ world of friends will be just waking up when we ‘cross the line’.

Very cool – very cool indeed?

Hasta luego gang!

Day 40 – Saturday 10/29 – Palas de Rei – Arzua 30.1k – 757k.

We didn’t expect such a long trek today but we walked to the town past the one in the guidebook because it had a pensione and the closer town only had an albergue…..looks like we are definitely done with albergues.

The path was busy today. Groups of school kids, a group of young offenders from Denmark….I know this cause I talked to one of the social workers in charge. November 1st is All-saints day and many Catholics from Spain and all over Europe consider it a blessing to be in Santiago on this day….so many folks have joined The Way for the last couple of days. The New-comers look so fresh and cleanly dressed and well-coiffed next to us ‘scruffy’ long-timers.

There is now a band of “merry travelers” people with whom we have walked, talked, eaten, and drank over the past couple of weeks….some even longer. They are people who will be arriving at the same time as us and there’s a kind of unexpected bond with these folks. After all, they too experienced the snow in O’Cebreiro, the rains and winds for the next couple of days. Many of us were in the same restaurant for dinner last night and the feeling of kinship was grand.

Today’s walk although long, was quite pleasant, with mild temperatures and lots of earth pathways through forests. We’re starting to see some Eucalyptus. It is promised that we will walk through dense eucalyptus forests from here all the way into (to quote John Brierly, our guidebook author) “the fabled” city of Santiago.

Day 39 – Fri 10/28 – Portomarin to Palas de Rei. 26k – 727km

We’re starting to look back in awe at what we’ve done. In many ways, it feels like we’ve been on the road forever. The last few days were tough. Cold, windy, wet but, we both feel pretty good about fighting our way through. I can’t help comparing this adventure the the Ironman one. I don’t think I know anyone who has accomplished an Ironman who looks back and says, “I had a great time racing that day”. No, not at all . The training was fun. The bonding with like minded people was great. Before and after each and every race all year long was fun, but the race itself is a bitch. A number of my Tri gang buds have been heard saying ” Too bad about the racing because the rest of this is a blast. Lynne and I are feeling the same way about this trip.

We’ve met some really interesting folks along the way. Like life itself though, a lot of ass holes too. I find myself looking in awe at Lynne and the fact that she has hung in all the way through the 700+k we’ve traveled so far. Sports, or more specifically, endurance sports aren’t her thing. We’ve watched a number of people we know fall by the wayside along the way. Bad feet, blister and leg problems being the major problem that have made others cut their journey short. We’ve done our bitching along the way but, in 3 more days, my Sweetie is going to finish this 800k journey. I’m pretty happy for her. I’d suggested a few times that she “wheel” her way forward for a town or two but, there was no way she was about to do that. Pretty cool I think.

We’re down to 3 days travel left. 25k tomorrow and then two 20k days. We’re both excited to be done and heading back home shortly afterwards, but we’re both looking back over our time too. Our major conversations of late though have been about, what we miss most from home. What we’re looking forward to.

Being able to go to the fridge and make whatever we want to eat. Any type of salad other than mixed green salad with crappy iceberg lettuce. Being able to turn up the heat. Being able to go to a store and speak, and be understood. Being able to phone friends, and just drop over to say hi. Being able to do our laundry is pretty high on the list these last few days too. We’re feeling like we’re going to have to buy new clothes before getting on the plane to come home. As much as we’ve been washing clothes in sinks along the way, and jumping at the odd chance to run them through the odd washing machine, hasn’t work out all that well. All of our clothing is just a bit too ripe these days!

We’d lucked out today with our walk. The sky’s were mostly cloudy with the odd hit of sunshine. The temperature was comfortable all day long. The forecast is the same for tomorrow. We were both feeling pretty good at the end of the 26k today, and noted how, just a few weeks ago, that distance was tough. It’s cool to watch our endurance levels rise. It’s been equally cool watching blisters and all sorts of aches and pains drop away too!

We’ve walked a few times with a younger guy (Nicholas) from Sweden. He explained to us that, he’d broken up with his girlfriend and, when looking for something to take the place of the trip he and she had planned together, decided to walk the Camino. He explained how, when he told his dad what he was going to do got an understandable “Are you nuts!” response from him. After explaining it to his dad for a while, his dad got into it and, the two of them decided that they’d meet up in Sarria and finish the walk with together. When we checked into our hotel tonight, there was a guy at the desk checking in before us. We’re all pretty quick out here at asking, who are you, where you going, where you coming from etc and, sure enough, the guy turned out to be Nicholas’s dad. We met up with the two of them at dinner later too. It felt magical that we’d met like that.

Another thing that has been great along is trip is Lynne’s ability to speak Spanish. She feels like she can’t speak well at all but, she, with only a bit of difficulty, has got us through anything and everything we’ve come up against all along the way. I did laugh this morning when, we’d headed out early before sunup and, we thought we were lost. There was a fellow ahead of us on the path with a headlight. I used my best Spanish with (Lina – you’ll love this) “Amigo, are you the maid” which is spanish for ” Friend, Help”. He did. We weren’t lost after all!

That’s it for tonight’s update. We’re wishing our designer friend Torino was here with us, but, he’s a few towns back, emailing us nightly with tomorrow recommended place to stay.

Adios Amigos – looking forward to being home again soon….. Oh yea, as of tomorrow, home in a week!

Day 38 – Thursday 10/27- Sarria – Portomarin – 23 kilometers – 696 km

Gentle is the word I would use to describe today. We decided last night that we would make use of a service which has been available during the entire journey. There are several companies along the way that pick up your backpack at the departure hotel/Albergue and deliver it to the pre-picked destination hotel. With email help from buddy Torino who has the detailed guide book and who is still one town behind us, we chose Pensione Arenas in Portomarin. We paid three euros to have my bag, loaded up with much of Greg’s stuff too, driven to today’s destination instead of being transported there on my back. What a pleasure!

We walked out of town this morning with Thomas, a Hamburg bar owner with whom we’ve been keeping pace for the past 5 or 6 days. His evening wasn’t as pleasant as ours. The pension he chose asked for 5 extra euros when he requested heat. He refused and froze.

A misty rain was falling but the temperature was mild. It rained, mostly softly, on us all day until about 20 minutes outside of Portomarin. Wet is okay, wet and cold is unbearable. We both expressed gratitude for the warmer day and we wore less layers.

We have a new routine lately. After about three hours of walking we stop at a bar/cafe and each order a tortilla Francais. This is a plain fluffy omelette and today when I asked for ketchup, they actually had some. Delicious. Eating here has become a matter of making sure we are fueling our bodies. We have not found the food to be very exciting and consequently it is just another chore that must be completed, like washing out our socks each night.

Our hike today was very pastoral. We walked on earthen and stone paths with gentle climbs and ascents. Enormous puddles were a challenge, but stepping stones in most places kept our feet relatively dry. The trees were giant gnarled oaks, huge birches and chestnuts. For the past several days chestnuts have been ankle deep in some places on the path. There were miles of ancient, moss-covered stone fencing, tumbled and broken in some places. We past cattle and pig farms and were forced to breathe in the requisite pungent aromas that accompany farm-life. We passed hamlet after hamlet but few had a bar or cafe. Greg mentioned at one point that he felt like he was walking down the fabled rabbit hole, if that helps give a better visual of the day’s trek.

It was very exciting to pass the 100 km to Santiago mile marker today. We stopped, despite the continuing showers to take some photos.

We were joined by Ursula and Randy for the last couple of hours into Portomarin. She’s from Munich and we really connected. The last 5k just melted away as she and I shared ideas and some personal insights about this experience…..and then I noticed, the showers had stopped and we were in town. We found our pension and like magic, my bag was waiting in the hallway. We may both send our backpacks for a ride tomorrow.

This town is small but lovely. Our hotel is situated in the square facing the church. I found a lovely supermercado and picked up some fruit which we have been craving and needing so as not to get scurvy. The simple things dominate our lives. 4 walking days left.,

Day 37 – Wed 10/26 – Tricastela to Sarria 18k -673k

We had a choice of two routes to Sarria today. One, through the countryside, the other mostly along the road, with a couple of countryside hills to climb. The second route was 6k shorter. We opted for the shorter of the two, regardless of the sharp 200 meter climb.

Yesterday had been a cold wet day. Today turned out just to be wet and cool. No snow blowing into our faces, but the wind picked up. I checked after we checked into our hotel this afternoon and saw we’d been fighting 53mph winds. Both of us were almost blown off our our feet a couple of times. A couple of times I looked back at Lynne to see her crouched down, feet wide and trekking poles way off to the front, planted wide also, trying for all she was worth to not get blown off of the road. We don’t have proper cold weather clothes so, we were wearing just about all of our clothes, trying to keep warm. It made us nice large, Michelin Tire type targets for the wind.

We had a bite of breakfast before we left town and, ended up being pretty glad we did. Apparently we missed 2 cafes along the way. We’d been on the road for almost 3 hours before we found anywhere to eat and get something warm to drink. A couple of hours later, some more wind and rain and a touch of hail and, we got our butts into Sarria.

Sarria is a special town on the Camino. People, pilgrims, can start from here and walk the Camino to Santiago de Compostela and get credit for walking the Camino. According to the guide book we are using, we’ve got 117k left to go. According to the weather reports we’re looking at, we’ve got another couple of days of rain, a couple of warmer cloudy days and then, rain on Halloween afternoon as we finally walk into Santiago.

Our plan from now is, walk for 5 days to arrive in Santiago on Monday the 31st. We have a hotel booked for 3 nights. We’ll spend one day, traveling by bus, to and from Finesterra. Finisterra was considered ‘the end of the world’. I just HAVE TO see it while we’re here. We fly to Barcelona on Thursday and fly home on Saturday. I expect we’ll both just sit, with our feet up, for a couple of days back in Newmarket!

Adios Amigos!